Christmas 08

Christmas in Bangladesh is lacking the cold, evergreen trees, not to mention the lack of public excitement in a Muslim country, but we had a fun pre Christmas dinner with some family friends. Veronika made a wonderful dinner of rice, chicken and fish so Bengali's didn't have to feel that they weren't fed. We made cookies and I think at first they wondered why I was making them help with their food but I think they figured out it's actually a kind of fun activity with tasty results. You may describe this as a Charlie Brown Christmas tree but I have raised it from a small sapling and I think it's pretty cute!

New opportunities

2008 has been really busy, if you've noticed my blog entries becoming increasingly scarce! MCC has 3 programs in Bangladesh, one is agriculture research and extension, where I have primarily been working up until this year, one is Health and Education which supports children in schools, orphanages,... and Job Creation, which works with organizations that develop the kinds of products you see in 10,000 Villages (you do shop there, right?!). This year we have been working with a local NGO that serves to promote the human rights, health, and safety of floating (street or hotel based as opposed to brothel based) sex workers to identify women who wish to leave sex work to make fair trade products. There was a lot of interest, but we had to narrow our initial selection to 26. Well, we said 20, but when it came down to it, couldn't exclude those last few! They are now coming daily for training in everything from life skills, to communication, to leadership, to literacy, to math, and I'm working on their English. You should hear them sing "Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes" and "The Hokey Pokey", the pain life has given them disipates and they sing their new English words with reckless abandon. We had a new life celebration for them last week which was really special. For the past five days I was away with other programs, so coming back today, I was amazed at the change I saw. Back when I came for the final interviews in May, while their features were attractive, there was a deadness in their eyes, even the young ones, that was alarming. I walked in today on a group of women that can play with abandon like children, who have smiles rather than tragedy in their eyes, who are lovely, giving women so enthusiastic to make the most of an opportunity that they have, that so many need.

In Bangladesh, there is so much poverty, and in spite of the facade of religious fervour, Bangladeshi sex workers are the busiest in the world. At the same time, they are completely shunned by society. For those whose families are aware they lived that life, even if they were kidnapped or sold into it, they can never go back home. And it's a life no one enters willingly. I have yet to find someone in Bangladesh who chose this profession... everyone I have met has a story of a father dying, a husband leaving, being raped, being manipulated, being coerced, or living in debilitating poverty. In Bangladesh, such a woman is "spoiled" and no redemption is available. Of course, we disagree!

These women will work with an enterprise MCC is developing which will produce soap. I'll keep you posted on their continued transformation and eventual production! It's not an easy road... Please keep them in your prayers!

biye

Marriage (biye) in Bangladesh is critical. In our initial HIV pilot project baseline survey almost everyone, male and female, answered "yes" to the statement "marriage is essential to a happy life." When I see what marriage involves, especially for rural girls/women, I really don't understand that view, but Bangladesh is not a place where nonconformity is valued. Still, it made me sad this morning to talk to the lady who cleans my friends house and hear her family situation. I knew one sister had been married a couple years ago at a very young age... 13. She also had a baby recently. So I was surprised when she said her other sister is 22 yet unmarried. She said this sister is "kalo" or black, and therefore the family cannot afford a dowry for her as more money would be needed to find a husband for a woman, who in this culture, is deemed undesirable by the shade of her skin. She said her sister, unlike her, can read and write, and can do beautiful Kantha, the traditional Bengali sewing/embroidery. But she's dark and poor and therefore can't getting married, feeling sad watching all her friends marry and have kids. As someone who thinks dark skin is so beautiful, I don't understand, nor do I understand determining a persons worth by such arbitrary criteria.

Oregon visitor

I just had my first Oregon visitor in Bangladesh, Stanley.  Flat Stanley that is.  I think he had rather a good time and hope he will tell others what an interesting place Bangladesh is.  Here he is riding a rickshaw in Dhaka.

snow in Piegacha

my sister sent some gifts for the family of the woman who works in my house. I was visiting her village to attend a wedding and this is the fun we had with the unique toys from the US. One of the things was "snow", seen for the first time in Piergacha I'm sure!

Not quite Barnum and Bailey

Last weekend I took a break from my "spring cleaning" (although it's winter here, it's spring temperatures) to take my friend and her son to the fair.  Thinking we'd make a fairly quick getaway, I inwardly groaned when we discovered the circus would start in half an hours time.  I decided that this was actually a cultural experience not to be missed.  Bengali's of all times, wealthy, poor, Bhurka clad, sari wearing, young and old.  

the circus began with some Bengali songs and I thought the two hours of high pitched singing would not be so bearable.  then things began to pick up.  Girls did cartwheels and flips dressed in tights and t shirts with bloomers.  "little people"played clowns mimicking them (I guess it's more dignified than begging on the streets ...I don't know).  a goat walked on planks.  A woman threw knives at another spinning woman.  a motorcycle went upside down within a large circular cage.  Although missing the bearded lady, I'd guess pretty similar to circuses of hundred years ago.  As usual it
was just fun to live in a place that is in so many ways like time travel to a simpler time with simpler pleasures.  The grand finale was an elephant kicking a football.  I think my nieces could actually come be Bengali circus stars with their gymnastic abilities but doubt it's a well payed career, and from what I understand, rather scandelous.  Although the prestigious people watch the circus, they wouldn't accept the performers in 
proper society.  
Which is one of the painful things about living here, the hierarchy and the 
societal limitations  placed on groups of people.  Still, a fun day, a fun time, 
and a joy to see the young son of my friend (seen in the picture of my blog on my lap) 
with eyes as big as saucers!

Pilgrimage

Above is a link for a pilgrimage under way in Bangladesh at the moment.  Unfortunately it is the same weekend I chose to come to Dhaka for some meetings and to see some friends.  We'll see if I'll be able to get home tomorrow.  May be a long trip to get back the same time 3-5 million pilgrimage takers are heading out of Dhaka/Bangladesh.  Wish me luck!