Saturday, April 25, 2009

The “who needs a bed (or shower)” tour of Rajasthan day 2 - 4










So a noisy train doesn’t seem like the best preparation for 3 days on a camel, but time limitations didn’t allow for a break in between. Guess we slept well enough as we were all woken by someone banging on the train windows at 5:30 am at Jasailmer station. The man from Ganesh travels was waiting to take us for breakfast and a shower before we needed to get to our camels. We were in their guest house which is inside the fort… an ecological no no according to Lonely Planet but boy it was nice to eat breakfast as we watched the sun rise over the fort and temple walls. A cup of coffee and a shower and I was ready for whatever came my way.  
They drove us out into the desert about an hour where our camels were waiting. I was introduced to Sunday, my travel companion for the next 3 days. Sunday was typically the leader of the group and was taken to fairs and such to show off his talents such as to put his head cutely down on the ground upon demand. He had some stomach issues which didn’t make him hugely popular with those following closely behind (sorry Sarah). I’m not sure what my compatriots meant when they say we all had the camel most suited to their personality. Jodi had the naughty one… I see that. Dave’s Papaya just followed along but once in a while got a bit more adventurous ie: trying to snuggle up to Sarah and running away for a night of feasting on the second night; Sarah’s regal and steady; and mine… slow and steady leader with particularly bad smells? Does that fit?  

Overall I feel my preparation of kicks and squats courtesy of Billy Blanks Bootcamp prepared me as much as possible for 3 days on a camel, but really, how do you prepare for 3 days on a camel? When we stopped for lunch I was pretty surprised my legs could still hold me up. I loved the simple meals of whole grain chapatti’s and vegetables always preceded by tea. We had hours of siesta which did get long as suddenly the heat became really intense and sticky. Around 3 it cooled off a bit and it was time to climb back up on the camels and carry on. It was really relaxing to travel through the desert seeing the plants, wildlife (deer and mice), birds and just enjoying life. Just when I was about ready to really STOP enjoying life, these children came running out of the desert like a mirage carrying water soaked jute bags full of semi cold sodas. It was the most amazing think I have put in my mouth! It was also time for the camels to have a drink from a well, and a short hike later we were making camp on a beautiful sand dune, settling in first to watch the sunset and then to see the most amazing display of stars I have seen for a long time.  

My response to the sand beetles was not exactly what one would refer to as stoic. The Camel Guide’s assistant, in his limited English, assured me they would not hurt me and would only give “beetle kiss”. O but how much I did not WANT beetle kisses. The first night they seemed like they liked Dave best but night two, perhaps as my hair smelt more like camel dung, they seemed to be drawn to me as well. As were some wild dogs trying to befriend Sarah during the night. Regardless, sleeping on the sand dunes and waking to a big cup of tea being put by your bedding in the morning was pretty fabulous.  

Our camel guide was a character as well. He’s 28 and got married at 23 when his wife was 10. He only saw her that one day and will not live with her for another 5 years. He’s illiterate but has picked up some pretty hilarious sayings from tourists all over the world. He referred to himself as “bloody camel man” and regaled us with his camel man rendition of “I’m a Barbie girl, in a Barbie world” (“I’m a camel man, in a camel world”) and tales of people he’s taken on safari. One he swears went sleepwalking for miles but didn’t want to have to end her camel trek early so had him tie her down like a camel. Another was offended when he referred to her “grandfather” which was in fact her husband but later she admitted she would take his money when he died, “like a vulture,” according to Shajan, our leader and story teller extraordinaire. We attempted to teach him a good American line since the majority seemed more Australian or British, but found it difficult to explain what our chosen phrase, “Here’s a quarter, find someone who cares,” means. Come to think of it, that’s already becoming obsolete in the US as well, isn’t it. Shame… it’s such a great line.  
The desert is full of windmills, according to our guide to give water to the villages. According to the audio tour we did later, to provide power to the armed forces on the border. Hopefully Shajan’s version is true as well.  
I was perhaps the only one of our team sad to see the trek come to an end. Everyone else was feeling sore and tired but I definitely felt less sore the third day. I also had a chance to rinse off 3 days of sweat and dryness which gave me a whole new lease on life. But all things must end and it was time to return to Jasailmer town and explore by foot. PS… no one is exaggerating the tales of camel flatulence… it’s rough, but otherwise they are amazing animals PSS… Saw one snake trail but no snakes which made it a GOOD trip! PSS Never changed clothed or bathed on this trip aside from some wet wipes but seriously, I smell so much worse after a day walking around in Bangladesh than I did after 3 days in dry desert heat on a smelly camel.   Go figure!

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Robin, you are amazing! Beautiful pictures, wonderful stories. The desert at night must have been spectacular. So glad you were able to take this trip! Talk soon. xo

paintnpencil said...

Incredible blog, am loving it. Thanks for sharing your stories with us.