New opportunities

2008 has been really busy, if you've noticed my blog entries becoming increasingly scarce! MCC has 3 programs in Bangladesh, one is agriculture research and extension, where I have primarily been working up until this year, one is Health and Education which supports children in schools, orphanages,... and Job Creation, which works with organizations that develop the kinds of products you see in 10,000 Villages (you do shop there, right?!). This year we have been working with a local NGO that serves to promote the human rights, health, and safety of floating (street or hotel based as opposed to brothel based) sex workers to identify women who wish to leave sex work to make fair trade products. There was a lot of interest, but we had to narrow our initial selection to 26. Well, we said 20, but when it came down to it, couldn't exclude those last few! They are now coming daily for training in everything from life skills, to communication, to leadership, to literacy, to math, and I'm working on their English. You should hear them sing "Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes" and "The Hokey Pokey", the pain life has given them disipates and they sing their new English words with reckless abandon. We had a new life celebration for them last week which was really special. For the past five days I was away with other programs, so coming back today, I was amazed at the change I saw. Back when I came for the final interviews in May, while their features were attractive, there was a deadness in their eyes, even the young ones, that was alarming. I walked in today on a group of women that can play with abandon like children, who have smiles rather than tragedy in their eyes, who are lovely, giving women so enthusiastic to make the most of an opportunity that they have, that so many need.

In Bangladesh, there is so much poverty, and in spite of the facade of religious fervour, Bangladeshi sex workers are the busiest in the world. At the same time, they are completely shunned by society. For those whose families are aware they lived that life, even if they were kidnapped or sold into it, they can never go back home. And it's a life no one enters willingly. I have yet to find someone in Bangladesh who chose this profession... everyone I have met has a story of a father dying, a husband leaving, being raped, being manipulated, being coerced, or living in debilitating poverty. In Bangladesh, such a woman is "spoiled" and no redemption is available. Of course, we disagree!

These women will work with an enterprise MCC is developing which will produce soap. I'll keep you posted on their continued transformation and eventual production! It's not an easy road... Please keep them in your prayers!

biye

Marriage (biye) in Bangladesh is critical. In our initial HIV pilot project baseline survey almost everyone, male and female, answered "yes" to the statement "marriage is essential to a happy life." When I see what marriage involves, especially for rural girls/women, I really don't understand that view, but Bangladesh is not a place where nonconformity is valued. Still, it made me sad this morning to talk to the lady who cleans my friends house and hear her family situation. I knew one sister had been married a couple years ago at a very young age... 13. She also had a baby recently. So I was surprised when she said her other sister is 22 yet unmarried. She said this sister is "kalo" or black, and therefore the family cannot afford a dowry for her as more money would be needed to find a husband for a woman, who in this culture, is deemed undesirable by the shade of her skin. She said her sister, unlike her, can read and write, and can do beautiful Kantha, the traditional Bengali sewing/embroidery. But she's dark and poor and therefore can't getting married, feeling sad watching all her friends marry and have kids. As someone who thinks dark skin is so beautiful, I don't understand, nor do I understand determining a persons worth by such arbitrary criteria.

Oregon visitor

I just had my first Oregon visitor in Bangladesh, Stanley.  Flat Stanley that is.  I think he had rather a good time and hope he will tell others what an interesting place Bangladesh is.  Here he is riding a rickshaw in Dhaka.

snow in Piegacha

my sister sent some gifts for the family of the woman who works in my house. I was visiting her village to attend a wedding and this is the fun we had with the unique toys from the US. One of the things was "snow", seen for the first time in Piergacha I'm sure!

Not quite Barnum and Bailey

Last weekend I took a break from my "spring cleaning" (although it's winter here, it's spring temperatures) to take my friend and her son to the fair.  Thinking we'd make a fairly quick getaway, I inwardly groaned when we discovered the circus would start in half an hours time.  I decided that this was actually a cultural experience not to be missed.  Bengali's of all times, wealthy, poor, Bhurka clad, sari wearing, young and old.  

the circus began with some Bengali songs and I thought the two hours of high pitched singing would not be so bearable.  then things began to pick up.  Girls did cartwheels and flips dressed in tights and t shirts with bloomers.  "little people"played clowns mimicking them (I guess it's more dignified than begging on the streets ...I don't know).  a goat walked on planks.  A woman threw knives at another spinning woman.  a motorcycle went upside down within a large circular cage.  Although missing the bearded lady, I'd guess pretty similar to circuses of hundred years ago.  As usual it
was just fun to live in a place that is in so many ways like time travel to a simpler time with simpler pleasures.  The grand finale was an elephant kicking a football.  I think my nieces could actually come be Bengali circus stars with their gymnastic abilities but doubt it's a well payed career, and from what I understand, rather scandelous.  Although the prestigious people watch the circus, they wouldn't accept the performers in 
proper society.  
Which is one of the painful things about living here, the hierarchy and the 
societal limitations  placed on groups of people.  Still, a fun day, a fun time, 
and a joy to see the young son of my friend (seen in the picture of my blog on my lap) 
with eyes as big as saucers!

Pilgrimage

Above is a link for a pilgrimage under way in Bangladesh at the moment.  Unfortunately it is the same weekend I chose to come to Dhaka for some meetings and to see some friends.  We'll see if I'll be able to get home tomorrow.  May be a long trip to get back the same time 3-5 million pilgrimage takers are heading out of Dhaka/Bangladesh.  Wish me luck!

Victoria Falls

It may be dry season, but Vic Falls is still an amazing place.  Try to catch the rainy season though!

zambia

Culture shock begins at gate 17

I have spent the past nearly 4 weeks traveling to Swaziland, Zambia and Uganda assisting with a documentary about youth involved in HIV prevention. My role was to ask the questions while Shawn, an MCC employee, ran around coordinating and filming everything. I’m not quite Katie Couric, (lacking the stiletto heels, blonded hair, and talent), but stumbled along, and enjoyed meeting many interesting young people.

I had been looking forward to returning to Africa since Africa and African people have a special place in my heart and I am still trying to figure out what I miss so much in Bangladesh. African people just have a vibrancy maybe that I’m drawn to. I certainly love the wild nature that can be found there.

Each place we visited was different. Swaziland was young adults who visit churches to do a drama and music program and help establish support clubs to promote abstinence among unmarried and faithfulness in marriage. It was a group of young people really talented (a number of them could take American Idol, I’m telling you) who were really committed to their cause and really fervent in their faith. It was fun to meet them and join them for some of their activities. I was able to go visit a friend in South Africa who has married and moved there permanently. Having added 2 little daughters to her family since my last visit, it was great to see her. I realized I had been to her house in 2001, 2003, 2005 and now 2007, so this trip was destiny, I’m sure of it.

The next stop was Zambia, where we spent the first night with the MCC reps, Sigi and Lois, who are responsible for me joining MCC in the first place. They fed us cappuccino’s topped with dark chocolate, shortcake and fruit (nectarines…. After 15 months with no sign of a peach or nectarine, what a treat!), later dinner of Sigi’s spaetzle, and we were sent off to Choma (about 4 hours from Lusaka towards Victoria Falls) for the project. We were looking at a youth peer educator program at the Brethren in Christ school (Brethren in Christ is part of the Anabaptist group and fairly connected to MCC). The youth were really well spoken and especially animated when discussing in a small group about the issues they are facing. We took a day trip to Vic Falls which is impressive even if it is lacking water at the moment. The morning before we left I went to my old workplace and saw my former boss and current friend, Reberiah. I was really pleased to hear that the things I was working on there are still going forward like the schools I worked with are using the radio program which walks the teacher through a set of lessons improving the quality. One of the schools that my aunt has been raising money for is gradually being built and should be finished with the latest installment. Home based care groups are growing and have more resources now.

Final stop, Uganda, and although I didn’t have any friends to connect with here, I was excited to go somewhere I’d never been. In Uganda we were visiting a project called AEGY which trains peer educators in schools and has care and support programs for people living with HIV/AIDS and for orphans. This project was fun because we got to visit communities and people. One thing I was amazed by was people’s openness about being HIV positive. There is still stigma, but at least people participating in AEGY’s programs are bold and active in their support groups. We visited some homes, interviewing a couple who were both positive and leaders of a support group, as well as meeting some children. I have been a bit haunted by a few children I met who are living with HIV. One is a young girl…by size you’d guess she’s 2, but the expression on her face of wizened sadness, makes me think she’s probably quite a bit older. I don’t believe she’s on ARV’s (AIDS medication), and certainly looks like she could use them. Another girl is only 18 years old, and has been scarred and crippled with HIV and herpes. She also had given birth to a still born baby. I kept saying that any youth who saw what had happened to her would surely be turned off casual sexual relationships.

In Uganda I was reminded what it’s like in Africa constantly being greeted with the local word for white person( in this case, “mzungu”) which DOES get old…although maybe not as creepy as the unabashed stares of Bangladesh villagers. As we drove back to Kampala we stopped and saw some falls on the Nile River…that was a treat! I also relished a bacon and avocado salad before heading back to a country without much of either!

I heard about the cyclone headed toward Bangladesh that evening, and it seems we (the cyclone and I) were scheduled to hit near the same time. Sure enough, it hit Dhaka right when I was supposed to be boarding my flight. So instead I managed to score a lounge chair in the “quiet lounge” (aside from the loudspeaker directly ahead announcing each flight loading) of Dubai airport, and arrived in Dhaka about 12 hours late….little to pay in light of all the loss of lives that has been experienced here. My friends’ colleague was flooded in the previous blight, and now had a tree land on their house. Getting it from all directions, but again, Bengali’s are used to suffering and calamity and take it with resignation and grace.

I was pleased to finally head to gate 17 for boarding, and this is when you leave the normal planet and enter the “Bangladesh Zone”. I doubt I can describe this in a way you can truly understand until you yourself make the journey, as it’s like nothing else you’ve experienced. You reach the gate, and instead of the wide range of families, tourists, backpackers… it’s men. Bengali men. Lots of Bengali men. Maybe a few women, clothed in Bhurka’s or a sari, perhaps also a child or two, but a heavy majority, men. The call for pre boarding in not the usual quiet group of people in wheelchairs and families with strollers and young children….it is hundreds of men crowding into the gate, ever pushing forward even before the gate is open. The people needing the extra time and assistance to board haven’t a chance and resign themselves to moving aside until the hordes have moved through.

Once on the plane, things don’t really calm down. Trying to keep people in their seats, wearing their seatbelts, with their cellphones off. Few of the stewards speak any Bangla, and 95% of their passengers are speaking no English. There are always multiple reminders not to smoke in the bathroom as people are caught doing so. As soon as the plane touches ground and is hurtling down the runway, people are up and grabbing their bags from above. Comical if it wasn’t so indicative that you are arriving in a place where your normal mode of operandi is suddenly topsi turvey!

flood update 3, 14 March

I'm heading to the beaches of Sri Lanka (OK, most ofmy time will be sitting in conferences, but will see the beaches too I hope!) so won't have much info fromthe flood zone for a while. Most of you have seennews now of the floods, and people do continue tosuffer. There are still many, many people living onthe sides of the roads in make shift houses, made moreunpleasant by ongoing rains. Not one prone to usinglittle sayings, I still have to say, "when life givesyou lemons, make lemonade" is one that Bengali's havecertainly taken to heart. The PARE program of MCC that I work with has been busydistributing relief supplies. For people who areliving in the makeshift house without cookingsupplies, they are receiving food that can be eaten asis as well as water treatment items. People able tocook food are receiving rice, oil, salt, lentils, oralrehydration salts and water treatment. There is always concern that the food gets to theright people, and this is always a challenge. Thereare always people who didn't receive it with obviousneed. At the same time, looking at the peoplecollecting the food, it's obviously they could haveused more food before the flood as well.

Riverfront property...written 30 July

Here's some photos of my riverfront property! I have ten people staying in my house right now -- 2 of whom are babies and think I'm the scariest thing they've ever seen.....get hysterical if I come within 10 feet. People are sleeping on the stairwell, on the roof, everywhere really, but many more are continueing to evacuate. Luckily have a stash of drinking water and a gas cannister to tide us over and the electricity is still working for the most part, as well as the phone line obviousely. In the next hours MCC will decide if we're doing some relief work or just need relief ourselves!

The River (written July 30th, 2007)

If you remember my first visit to my current home, I was pretty excited to be a couple miles from the beautiful Jamuna River. This river is now nearly waist deep at my house. I live on the second floor, and my office is a 3 storey building, so I am safe (able to wade between the two places at least for now) with water and food, but I am certainly an exception here. Please pray for my neighbors who are sufferring greatly right now. The rain has stopped, but this is water flowing from the floods in India and Nepal, so who knows how long it will continue. MCC is currently considering relief efforts, but there is a lot involved and it means suspension of other work for some time. The amazing thing is how good natured people are. A little girl started talking to me this morning. She greeted me, asked me where I was going. I asked her how her house was. With a big smile she said, "It has water, but we caught two fish." So there you go....the Bengali look on the bright side attitude. The longer people are marooned, and as water and food become more scarce, the situation will be more devestating.

Thanks for your thoughts and prayers

Here you go, Cis

I was "tagged" and told to post 8 things people may not know about me...and since I don't want whatever dire consequences would come from failing to do so, here we go....

I think I can eat popcorn with parmesan cheese and brewers yeast every day of my life and be perfectly happy!

I like to pray when I go for my walks so I don't get distracted by my need to organize my sock drawer or dust under the bed. I also haven't noticed people being particularly alarmed by me talking or singing under my breath.

I think people are more beautiful the darker they are....opposite of what darker people tend to think. I really wish they would stop buying "Fair and Lovely" whitening cream and be happy with themselves.....or trade me.

I've always been scared of spiders, and stuffed that fear a big until I saw how massive they can be in Bangladesh. Now I'm terrified again.

My favourite holidays are active....hiking, canoeing, snorkelling, cycling....

I try to be intellectual and choose good movies and books, but truth be known....nothing beats a good romance! Please don't knock a Meg Ryan film in my presence!

hmmmm....i'm at 6 now...2 more.

My favourite colours are orange and purple...not necessarily togehter, but sometimes....sure!

When I get scared I tend to utter words which can't be repeated here.....so you think I'm a nice, calm person until you almost run into me with your car or swerve in front of my motorcycle....then you'll maybe be surprised a nice girl likes me knows those kinds of words.

Was that ok, Cis? hope so!!!

Wheels!

I finally got my motorcycle learners permit and motorcycle. It still is hard to get my head around after the years with Peace Corps knowing I would be sent home immediately if I ever rode on a motorcycle. Still, I was surprised how excited I was to have my own wheels. My first day out and about in my town, I ended up heading across the bridge to the Jamuna Resort, where I just couldn't resist jumping in the pool for a swim, clothes and all. Mind you, for most Bengali's, this is the typical swimming attire! Even at the beach, swimming (for women) involves wearing shalwar camisse which includes baggy trousers, top, and large scarf. It does feel as if one may drown swimming this way! Anyway, regardless of the attire, the swim was nice, and even more so, the freedom. Now the not so fun part has come.... passing a written test (passed on my second 3-1/2 hour trip to Dhaka), a verbal test, and coming next week, the figure 8 test. Wish me luck!

Life after Nepal

Nepal was fabulous, but there has been a rather hectic and crazy life after Nepal and I just haven't had time to sit down and write. The HIV pilot program was pretty much wrapped up on the 29th, and now we rapidly have to try to figure out what should be duplicated with 3 different partner organizations, get the staff trained, and get going on it. I'll tell you more about the whole program soon, but also wanted to let you know that MCC's Commonplace Magazine, which is free and sent 6 times a year, will feature our program in the next issue.

Hopefully I'll get back to you tomorrow to tell you about my travels in India, and maybe a bit more about the work we've been doing. Also, I really appreciate hearing from you, so if you actually read this blog, could you comment or send a brief email...it would really make my day!

Words

Nepal....majestic mountain range...often hidden from view and you'd never even imagine they could be there....and then...just a brief break in the clouds and there they are in all their glory. Wheat fields of different shades of maturity. Women drying the ripened grains in the sun. Wrinkled old woman asking about my bracelets and if they signify marriage as theirs do. A Nepali woman giving me a seat out of the hail storm while demonstrating the traditional Gorung bag she is in the process of weaving. Watching storm after storm roll across the mountains as they disappear under dark clouds and re-emerge. Listening to stories of life as a Bhutan refugee, whose family was kicked out of Bhutan for being Nepalese, yet not given rights in Nepal, and still longing to go home after 16 years, turning down opportunities for an American visa. Resting at a Nepali farm house and being told I look and laugh like the younger sister. In my travels I have met many wonderful people, but never so many who made me feel so welcome and who gave me such an authentic view of their lives in an area that sees many passing by. And why may I never be able to reintegrate into the US.... $6 for a nights accommodation, 2 meals, 4 cups of milky tea, and I think that's a bit pricey!

Himalaya's

Our MCC retreat, for MCC ex pat staff from Sri Lanka, India, Nepal and Bangladesh, with some guests from different places joining us as well, was held in Phokara. Phokara is a town nestles by a lake surrounded by the Himalaya's Annapurna range. During our 4 day retreat, however, you would not know this was the case. They were almost completely hidden until most people had returned to Kathmandu, and only those of us who stayed on a bit were able to truly see their glory! (you've got a few photos that aren't so great because it's not uploading the right ones....TECHNOLOGY....sometimes NOT my friend!)

A picture's worth...

I have 364 photos, which will probably convey the idea that I LOVE NEPAL!!! I had a really wonderful time visiting MCC's HIV partners, touring Kathmandu, hanging out in Phokara, and doing a 2 day trek (all I could fit in). O, yeah, and with the MCC retreat, my real reason for being there, as well. I definitely want to go back for more, and for those of you planning your holidays, put Nepal on the list. Rather than waffling on, look at what I saw!

NEPAL!!!

Working with MCC in Bangladesh doesn't have a lot of the extravagent perks you'd get with a lot of international organizations (that darn adherence to MCC value of simplicity of lifestyle) but a staff retreat in Nepal is certainly a treat! I arrived on Tuesday afternoon with a few extra days to visit HIV projects of MCC Nepal. My schedule had to be changed due to some political disruption and fuel crisis, but I was still able to visit a few sites...one with an interesting van ride up a steep mountain (hill in these parts, but to me, a mountain!) to see a very well organized peer educator program in what I would consider the middle of nowhere! Kids climb mountains for 2 or 3 hours to get to school, and how they bring in food and such is a mystery to me. It gave me good inspiration for MCC Bangladesh's newly emerging peer education program! Thursday night I had dinner with a colleague I'd worked with in Zambia and his wife which was really a nice treat (ate a massive, juicy steak...num!). With the change in program I ended up with a day to explore Kathmandu yesterday, which was interesting. I went to an ancient square of religious monuments, hit the local shops, ate organic veggie full lunch, and then visited Boudha...a place of Tibetan pilgrimage....all very interesting. Now I'm in Phokara and our retreat will begin shortly. I'm hoping to arrange a day or two of trekking before leave but won't have much time. Photos and more tales shortly!

Beaches

Another 6 hours on a bus, and we were suddenly seeing sparkling waters. We took a ferry ride to the island of Koh Chang, a ferry ride, and then trekked until we found the “o so cool hippy hangout” described by Lonely Planet. Seeing that everyone else also reads Lonely Planet, it was full, but eventually we did find a nearby place of similar coolness and price range (about $4 for a small primitive hut with a bed big enough we figured the 3 of us could sleep). The best part was having dinner right on the water…a setting that would be out of our price range in most countries.

The first place we went had a new place which was described as the last remote beach in Koh Chang, so we decided to go there the next morning. It was about a 2 hour drive, the last bit of which did convince we certainly were at least making a good attempt to “get away from it all.” Once again we had a primitive hut with a bed which we decided really wasn’t big enough for the 3 of us, but we didn’t decide that until after 2 rather cramped nights. We swam, laid on the beach, read, and spent the evening sitting around tables eating and relaxing listening to the waves. Our second day we had booked a snorkeling trip, and since we were a bit remote, the 3 of us were picked up by a small motor boat and taken to the large boat with everyone else. Wielding our cameras, passports… we were shocked as choppy waters began splashing into the boat…by the time we reached the large boat we were completely drenched and had had a few rather harrowing moments, not to mention that our camera’s were barely dry. We dried off in the sun until we reached the snorkeling/diving destination which was really beautiful. Brightly coloured fish, interesting coral…it was really beautiful. After lunch we did a second excursion to national park waters where we could swim around a small island and see a wide range of underwater scenery. This was to be my highlight of the whole trip.

Planning our trip back to Bangkok in time for New Years eve, I discovered that we were a day ahead of ourselves when I went to book the bus ticket. We debated but decided to go ahead and head back to Bangkok and spend our “bonus” day there. It was lucky we did because after that everything was closed for the holiday so we wouldn’t have been able to see any of the attractions otherwise.

Rather than the government Mercedes bus we took to Koh Chang, our return boat was a tourist wonder….double decker bus, wild painting on the outside, hot pink interior, with films such as Mission Impossible and Snakes on the Plane for our viewing pleasure. The swaying bus made me a bit sick, but the laughs at such a gaudy display was worth it.